REVIEW: Busuanga Bay Lodge – Palawan, Philippines

Arrival

Transit in MNL was actually a lot less painful than I had been expecting, we exited the international terminal and made our way over to the domestic terminal where our itineraries were checked before access to the check-in area was granted. MNL has a policy of only allowing people with valid itineraries to enter the airport and this is primarily down to security concerns. There is a lot to be said for the resulting reduction in footfall within the terminals, given how busy the domestic terminal was, I doubt it could have handled a doubling in the number of people, assuming conservatively that every departing passenger has a single well-wisher alongside them. Our flight with PR was really enjoyable, in as far as that can be said for flying on a proper plane. We were driven to a bus gate and given a chance to experience the warmth of the Philippine sun as well as our first breath of fresh air in nearly a day. The crew was outrageously polite and friendly, insisting on helping us with our
carry ons and asking us all about our trip and our impressions of the Philippines so far. There was even a brief snack run where we were all offered bootleg Oreos and water.

I’d be lying if I said I wished this flight would never end but I definitely enjoyed it, particularly given the fact that nobody on that flight was there for business. Everyone was upbeat and ready to travel to paradise. Our flight was blocked for one hour but ended up arriving half an hour early at USU.

Cebu air is the other major carrier which flies this route. Gotta love the livery.

The airport is definitely somewhat on the rustic side and unmistakably SE Asian.

Baggage claim was certainly unique. We all walked off the plane into the arrival hall and stood behind a low wooden table/barrier.

The ground crew then brought our bags over by hand.

Despite our early arrival, the driver from Busuanga Bay Lodge (BBL) was there waiting for us. He said that the flights usually arrive early and only arrive on time if they’re late! We drove for around one and a half hours along some seriously bumpy roads and even avoided one particular turn as it appeared that an armed militia was manning a makeshift barricade at the end. As you can imagine I was not overly inclined to take pictures. The Philippines is a poor country with certain areas in the South of the country classified as being as dangerous as Syria, in the eyes of the British home office. The island region of Palawan with its hubs in Puerto Princesa and Coron is one of the more tourist friendly in the country and has been put on the map by the El Nido resorts (which we briefly considered visiting). However, we wanted to try something different. Chain hotels don’t exist here, I felt wonderfully liberated, picking a resort on its merits rather than a complex web of
external ramifications relating to bonus points, upgrades, qualifying stays etc. As soon as we arrived we were warmly greeted by a cohort of staff wearing khaki shorts and bright blue polo shirts. The initial impression from the lobby was striking almost as impressive as Alila Villas Uluwatu!

View from the lobby of BBL.

The main lobby and restaurant building.

The pool at the lobby.

We were in paradise. Not one I had ever imagined or seen before. A lush and verdant paradise of low lying hills, so brimming with plant life that the foliage touched the ocean.

Our Room – Clubhouse Suite

There are several room options at BBL, none of which break the bank. We opted for the best available room: a Clubhouse Suite. Whilst the standalone casitas also looked appealing we liked the idea of the the sweeping views, unobstructed by foliage and being close to the pool.

As you can see, there aren’t exactly any bad room options at BBL.

Kamara walking amongst the Casitas.

The Clubhouse suites are located one floor beneath the lobby and pool and the view is no less impressive.

Quilted leather headboard, ottoman, dark wood, in-built reading lights. Very nice for an unknown resort in the middle of nowhere.

A window into the bathroom. A divisive feature which I personally like, as it opens the room up immensely and really allows you to enjoy the full expanse of the magnificent vista. To the right, behind the bed, was the wardrobe and the tea and coffee making facilities… which I just now realised I didn’t photograph!

The indoor sitting area (which we really only used as a dumping ground for our clothes).

We slept with the curtains open every night. This is what morning looked like from bed.

The bathroom had a very modern and open design, with designer free standing bath tub and sinks. Thankfully, the toilet was not open plan.

Showering each morning was a joy. The nearest foot path was stuck to the building and a good 15ft beneath this window, so there were no issues at all with privacy. Not only a stupendous view but also an enormously refreshing and powerful shower.

The view into the bedroom, which has the possibility of being just as impressive as the view outside… let’s face it, nobody is coming here to share this room with their grandma or a business associate! All the usual amenities were provided; the brands were local to the region. One of my favourite parts of the room was the outdoor terrace, where I whiled away an hour or so each morning before Kamara woke up, reading my book, eating the Bakkwa I bought in SIN and drinking coffee. The only noises I heard, being those of boat propellers gurgling gently through the bay.
We would also spend time out here in the evenings until the sky got to more or less this colour. Which meant that it was time for happy hour at the bar on the water’s edge…

Food and Drink

The bar is that thatch roofed building, conveniently located at the bottom of the path beneath our room.

The bar staff were ludicrously friendly and polite and the price of happy hour drinks? $2 for a gin and tonic potent enough to give Oliver Reed pause for thought. Not that we would have quibbled too much over higher prices, given the setting.

This is the kind of sunset that’s worth travelling for. Every day was this good, or as you’ll soon see; sometimes far better…

Our room rate included breakfast which was served buffet style alongside a number of a la carte options. It included a variety of western options as well as a large number of delicious local dishes.

The staff got to know our preferences very quickly and would immediately bring a French press as well as two double espressos for us as soon as we sat down.

We took it in turns to sit facing outwards.

Activities

The pool

I’m not sure if this exactly counts as an activity, per se, but the pool is certainly one of the defining features of BBL and we did spend a lot of time there. So I’m going to count it!

In addition to loungers right in the sun, there were rattan sofas under the shade of the restaurant/ lobby pavilion. Staff were always quick to bring fresh glasses of ice cold water and if you wanted something more substantial, the prices were extremely reasonable.

If there wasn’t so much else to do I could have easily spent all day here looking out at the serene tranquility of the bay.

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Island Hopping

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One of the main draws of the Philippines are the pristine beaches and crystal blue waters. Whilst green was the dominant colour of Busuanga Bay, some truly idyllic, picture postcard islands were only about 20 minutes boat ride away. On our first full day we chartered a boat to take us Island hopping to a series of uninhabited islands. Thankfully some bamboo and palm leaf bales had been built to shield us from the intense midday sun.

Our trusty boat.

For lunch, we stopped at an Island that had a single family living on it. There we had a 3 course lunch prepared for us by our guide. We were also joined by a couple of super playful puppies who would come over and lick us every few minutes when we tried to catch some sleep in the shade after our meal.

Overall this was a really peaceful and relaxing experience, the perfect way to decompress (literally) before starting our dives on day 2.

Diving

We booked a special dive package that included a total of 7 dives per person. The diving school is located across the bay and is run by a German ex-pat named Gunther. He has been in Busuanga since the 80s and lives and breathes diving. He discovered a lot of the dive sites in Palawan and charted the cavernous interiors of numerous wrecks, which the area is famous for. Busuanga was home to a Japanese fleet during World War II, the fleet was well hidden by all of the various coves and bays but one day the American intercepted a communication which revealed the location of these warships. Overnight 14 of them were sunk. A major coup for the allied forces. Now they form the most extensive and diverse series of wreck diving seen on planet earth. As K and I are only certified to open water level we didn’t dive extensively inside the wrecks but I would say that the experience was utterly worthwhile. Nothing quite compares to suddenly spotting the hull of a giant ghostlike ship as it emerges
from the darkest depths below. Our dive master Mensoy had a kind smile and friendly demeanour, his skin like leather from years of continuous sun exposure. His stocky stature and powerful movements in the water gave you the impression that he was not somebody to mess with, whilst also giving you the reassurance that you were in extremely safe hands.

Mensoy guiding our boat.

This wreck ended on its side, almost upside down, so that when you first approached all you could see was the giant, coral mottled surface of its expansive hull.

We found Nemo.

You may recognise this fish from the critically acclaimed film, ‘Deuce Bigalow, Male Gigolo’.

The wrecks that are closer to the surface tend to deteriorate far quicker than those in the depths. Much like the temples of Cambodia, which have fused with trees over a thousand years; here you see a wreck which has undergone a similar process in only 50. The ever changing island weather meant that we often went from monsoon to magnificent sunshine in a matter of minutes. One of the most relaxing aspects of diving in Busuanga is that you can sleep during surface intervals, as your boat slowly gurgles along to the next wreck site. Alternatively you can spend your time playing ‘King of the World’ on the front of the boat.
One slightly shocking aspect of diving in Busuanga was the sheer number of jellyfish. We were right in the middle of their ‘season’ and there were millions of them! As a swimmer they can be scary but as a diver they are breathtaking to watch, elegantly propelling themselves through the water. One thing that surprised me is that other fish don’t seem to mind them at all. This poor guy even had other fish nibbling at him as he’d gotten stuck in the hull of one of the wrecks.
The amount of plankton in the water leads to reduced visibility and increased jellyfish activity, but it also meant there was plenty of food to go around. Aside from the wrecks, there is one very special dive near the town of Coron: Barracuda lake. This is a skin dive (no wetsuit), which begins with you diving from your boat into the sea.
You then swim towards a small pier that looks like something out of Waterworld.
Mensoy on the lookout.

Here, you exit the water and remove your fins and proceed to walk along some rickety wooden walkways, weighed down by your tank and BCD.

Until finally you reach Barracuda lake. A beautiful and secluded spot but one which these snorkelers cannot fully appreciate (I liken their predicament to that of somebody flying EY J on the A380).

This is a freshwater lake that has a crack in it, permitting salt water to enter. This saltwater is sandwiched between two layers of far colder fresh water. You can clearly see a thermocline as you descend from one water type into another. The effect of passing into the saltwater is like suddenly entering a giant bathtub… underwater. Diving this lake is nothing like any other dive I’ve been on. It is more like diving on the surface of the moon.

The catfish and small shrimp are the only inhabitants other than one reclusive, giant barracuda for whom the lake is named.

Also, in lieu of coral, there are a couple of trees at the bottom of the lake.

If you have even a passing interest in diving, I think you should absolutely make it a priority to head to Busuanga. There is enough to keep you entertained for weeks. The prices are (like everything else in this part of the world) hugely reasonable, the instructors are highly experienced and safety conscious and the feel of just drifting from one spot to another on your own private little boat is a world away from the often overcrowded and hectic experiences you get in other more popular dive sites in Asia.

Heading back to BBL, just in time for happy hour!

Jet Skiing

On our final day, we knew we wouldn’t be able to dive. The human body cannot withstand the pressure of going from the depths of the ocean and then taking to the skies without taking at least 12 hours (or 24 to be safe) to recuperate. Given the low cost and the amazing number of islands and bays to explore, we decided to give jet skiing a try for the first time. I’m so glad we did. Going in a straight line across the front of a beach resort must be fun. This was something else though. This was unbelievably awesome. Having the freedom to spot an island and say, “let’s go check it out”, walk on it for a bit and then head to the next one – it was similar to the feeling you get when you first learn to drive…. only there’s no speed limit!

The antenna you can see is part of Huma resort. The most expensive resort in the area, featuring Maldivian style overwater villas.

Sunset Cruise

You may have noticed the badass looking yachts in my earlier pictures. These are available for charter, if you want to go big game fishing. However rather than just leaving these parked in the evenings, there is a complimentary sunset cruise organised for guests three times per week. On the day we went, it was just us and one other couple. The crew encouraged us to take loads of pictures and go wherever we wanted.

Kamara looking great as always.

Did I mention there was unlimited free Prosecco?

Steering with one foot: Thug life.

The best part? Our friends, the singers, came along too! Unbelievably, they played Stairway, having never heard it before! One of them had an app with the musical notation on it and they both gathered round to play along. They made it as far as the big solo! Ridiculously impressive. As the sun began to set, the picture taking kicked into high gear. That night we saw the most remarkable sunset of our lives. Being in the middle of the ocean, surrounded by uninhabited islands, with a yacht almost to ourselves, music on request and unlimited booze… unforgettable.
…and they let me drive a little bit.

Conclusion

Our stay at BBL exceeded our expectations. The location is absolutely spectacular and worth the 1 hour connecting flight from MNL plus 1-1.5 hour car transfer. Yes it’s remote but that’s the appeal. The diving was like nothing else on this planet. The food definitely leaves some room for improvement, but this tends to be the case in isolated resorts. The room was very comfortable, spacious, well designed and had an amazing view. It was also kept very clean. The price of everything was phenomenal, particularly when you consider that you don’t have many options once you’re there. Obviously, this is a part of the world that can’t support higher pricing right now, but I don’t think it’ll stay like this for long. I almost regret writing this trip report as I hope to return and don’t want the place to get overrun with people, once people realise how good it is! (I’m still annoyed that I never got to book an NH F redemption using EY miles before they found out, I’d been eyeing that chart for
months…)

Departure

Back at Busuanga airport.

Soaking up a few more rays of sunshine before heading into the terminal.

So instead we headed to the gate area and used the last of our pesos to buy a coffee in the air conditioned area by Gate 1. I can’t say we were overly worried about making it all the way to our gate : Gate 2.